I’m paraphrasing but his response was something like this, “competition may extend the sport but the most important thing is to get out onto the water and fill your soul with something good“.
I didn’t see the speech, this story was told to me by a friend who did. However that phrase “fill your soul with something good” has stuck with me.
I don’t know what that statement does for you, but it helps me. I’m not a surfer but I know what it feels like when my soul is being filled with something good. And I reckon I’m going to try to d more of that, you?